Figure 1: Depressurize and bleed the air bladder using 12mm line wrench (some new Model S vehicles will have the air line located above the strut) (torque 5 nm)

Figure 2: Disconnect the end link using 18mm socket and T-30 Torx bit (torque 70 Nm)

Figure 3: Disconnect the lower control arm using 21mm wrench (torque 130 Nm)

Figure 4: disconnect the upper ball joint from the upper control arm using a T-50 Torx and a 15mm spanner (torque 60 Nm)

Figure 5: Disconnect the brake line from the brake line bracket clip

Figure 6: remove the lower fork bolt using Torx T-50 bit (torque 65 Nm)

Figure 7: Remove plastic cover in the front hood bay to access the strut bolts

Figure 8: Unscrew the strut bolts on top of the strut tower using 13mm socket (torque 39 nm)

Figure 9: Create a wide opening of the fork with a wedge tool to separate the air strut assembly from the fork

Figure 10: Remove the air strut assembly

Figure 11: Using a specialized tool, unscrew the top cap for the air strut assembly

Figure 12: Unscrew the bolt holding the stock shock into the air strut assembly using 17mm

Figure 13: Depending on the model year and version Tesla Model S, you may or may not require the included collar. Discard if unnecessary

Figure 14: Dampening adjustability is rated from1-4 complete turns on the adjustment point with a 3mm hex bit. Please locate the dampening chart below the instructions for our recommended settings

Figure 15: Take the O-ring and the space ring from the stock shock and place it on the Unplugged shock

Figure 16: Place the Unplugged Shock into the strut assembly and re-bolt it in

Please use 25-27ft/lbs and blue (medium) thread locker when installing these. Be very careful if using an impact, as not to damage and overtorquing the threading.

Figure 17: We recommend using a compressor with a rubber tip to tighten the seal of the air bladder and reseat the O-ring shock. Please make sure you test for air leaks.

Figure 18: Reposition the air strut assembly with the new shock back into the top mount strut sub frame and insert back into shock fork.

Figure 19: Reversing the process, tighten the fork bolt, tighten the bolts on top of the strut tower, reinstall the plastic cover, retighten the lower bracket using Torx T-50, reconnect the brake line to the bracket clip, reconnect the upper ball joint with the upper control arm using a T-50 Torx and a 15mm spanner, reconnect the lower control arm using 21mm wrench, reconnect the end link using 18mm and T-30 torx bit, and then pressurize the air bladder using 12mm line wrench.

Figure 20: Remove fender liner with 10mm and clips

Figure 21: Depressurize and bleed the air bladder using 12mm line wrench (torque 5 Nm)

Figure 22: disconnect lower shock bolt using 21 mm spanner and 21mm socket (torque 140 Nm)

Figure 23: Disconnect the rear suspension link assembly with 15mm (torque 135 Nm)

Figure 24: Disconnect emergency brake servo motor from the wiring harness

Figure 25: Disconnect servo motor the from the brake assembly with Torx T-25 wrench

Figure 26: Disconnect the toe link assembly using a 18mm spanner and socket (torque 130 Nm)

Figure 27: Unscrew the rear air strut assembly bolts with a 15mm socket(torque 40 Nm)

Figure 28: remove air strut assembly from rear strut mount

Figure 29: Remove air strut top plate with 13mm socket

Figure 30: Using a specialized tool, unscrew the top cap for the air strut assembly

Figure 31: Unscrew top bolt that holds shock in air strut assembly

Figure 32: Loosen rear stock shock from air strut sleeve

Figure 33: Take the stock O-ring and the spacer ring from the stock shock and place it on the Unplugged Shock, Install extra supplied Collar by simply sliding on until it stops. Shock should appear as shown prior to installing airbag.

Figure 34: Place the Unplugged shock in the air strut assembly

NOTE: Failure to install collar on rear shock can result in damage to air system.

Figure 35: retighten the shock bolt, then screw the top cap seal with specialized tool

Figure 36: We recommend using a compressor with a rubber tip to tighten the seal of the air bladder and reseat the O-ring shock. Please make sure you test for air leaks.

Figure 37: Reposition the air strut assembly with the new shock back into the top mount strut sub frame and insert back into shock fork.

Figure 38: Reversing the process, tighten the fork bolt, tighten the bolts of the strut tower, connect the toe link assembly using 18mm spanner and socket, reconnect emergency brake servo motor from the wiring harness and from the brake assembly with Torx T-25 wrench, connect the rear suspension link assembly with 15mm, connect lower shock bolt using 21 mm spanner and 21mm socket, pressurize  the air bladder using 12mm line wrench, and replace the fender liner with 10mm and clips.

COMFORT

FRONT – 1 ROTATION FROM FULL SOFT
REAR – 1 ROTATION FROM FULL SOFT

PERFORMANCE

FRONT – 2 ROTATIONS FROM FULL SOFT OR HARD
REAR – 2 ROTATIONS FROM FULL SOFT OR HARD

TRACK

FRONT – 4 ROTATIONS FROM FULL SOFT
REAR – 4 ROTATIONS FROM FULL SOFT

***WE RECOMMEND PERFORMING A VEHICLE SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT ONCE THE INSTALLATION HAS BEEN COMPLETED***

– When looking down at the shock, turning counter clockwise rotation will set it to softer and turning clockwise will set it to more firm.

– For most street users who prefer a balance of performance and comfort we would suggest setting it to 40% soft

– For a more comfortable than stock ride it can be set to full soft

– For a racing orientated car we suggest setting it at 75% firm as baseline and adjusting up higher for racing tire applications

PLEASE NOTE:

MAKE SURE TO TORQUE WHEELS TO 129LBS/FT